Issyk-Kul is the most important natural feature in Kyrgyzstan: a shockingly huge, pristine, beautiful body of water totally ringed by towering snow-capped peaks. It is among the world’s top ten lakes by depth and water volume, and one of the two biggest mountain lakes on the planet. It is critical to the nation and culture of Kyrgyzstan. It sits at the center of the Kyrgyz heartland, blocked by mountains from Uzbek Silk Road cities and Chinese empires, squarely in the high summer pastures where the Kyrgyz thrive.
The lake’s north shore is basically devoted to resorts for wealthy Bishkek-ites. The south shore is where the magic happens, a string of small communities along one road: rugged mountains loom above the bumpy tarmac, magical Utah-like canyons hide in the hills, the Dungan people have their stronghold and make delicious food, and a few eagle-hunters practice their traditional craft at a truly world-class level. Dive in to the pics below!
Hills and mountains outside BarksoonThe main south shore highway near BarskoonStreets of Karakol, the start of the road. This town was built by the Russian Empire as a frontier garrisson- the eastern edge of an empire. It still has a frontier feel.Skaska, the “Fairytale Canyon,” a one-mile hike off the main road between Barskoon and Bokonbayevo.Relaxed beach vibes near Barskoon. Much less developed than the north side of the lake.Paid hitchhiking is the way it’s done in most of Kyrgyzstan! We paid him slightly more than the bus price to get there fasterAshlan-Fu is a Dungan food: Dungans are ethnic Hui people, Chinese-speaking Muslims (they are not Uyghurs: in fact they are the only recognized ethnic minority in China which has Chinese as a native tongue, although they use some Persian and Turkic phrases), who migrated to Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan centuries ago. Their stronghold is in the east of the country around Karakol, where you can get the best damn Ashlan-Fu anywhere in a tightly packed alley downtown. Each bowl cost 35 som in 2021 (about 40 cents).Starting off on a day with the eagle hunters of Bokonbayevo. Incredible experience- organized by the CBT office (in the main market, appears on google maps).Crux of the eagle performance: the killing of a rabbit.Of course, the eagle demonstration ends with a tourist money shot. Who can say no to this?
