Nico Reitman and I took these photos on a trip to the Kumtor area, a high-altitude plateau in eastern Kyrgyzstan, near the China border. It’s barren, desolate, possibly the northernmost plateau in the world of such an altitude (3500-4000m), and inhabited by incredibly tough semi-nomads. The road to Kumtor goes south into the mountains from Barksoon, and is doable in a sedan. Thanks to Sergey, the Russian guy who brought us up there in his rental car. Scroll for the photos, some fascinating Kumtor history, and the mysterious nomad Mula who we met in the high country.
A warning that the last photo is graphic (including severed animal heads).
High pass (above 4000m/13,000ft) into deep Kumtor. In WW1, Russia called all able-bodied Kyrgyz men to the front. Many families tried to escape over this pass into China, and many died. Those who survived make up a remaining Kyrgyz community in Xinjiang, China.
On the way up, we picked up a hitchhiking old nomad called Mula, which turned out to be a great decision. She showed us her home in the high barren valley where she lives from May-October (it took hours to find- she was a little confused), her husband, and her sheep. It is hard to describe how utterly isolated she lives.
Mula and her husband Kumar ( a surprisingly Indian name!)Kumtor is so high that glaciers come down almost to road levelMula’s sheep flock, grazing the high plateau. Mula and her husband do not own this flock of 900 sheep- they get paid to look after them for the summer.Mula’s flock
Nico on Mula’s husband’s horse. Scale of the land is incredible.
Another herd on the way back to Barskoon
Mula’s home valley. Some people up here live in small shipping containers, others in yurts, and a few in plywood/metal shacks
Goodbye Mula!
Full crew minus Sergey, with Mula and husbandWhen leaving the plateau, we saw this bizarre abandoned trailer or possibly former mining railroad car. We went up to investigate, and never could have expected to find what we did….. (next photo is graphic)Inside the trailer/car! Stench was awful. No idea why these were here
