The Dirtbag Peakbagger Wish List

9 seriously high peaks you can climb almost for free, and with no climbing skill at all

As a thorough disclaimer, I failed at 5000m due to altitude sickness the only time I tried to climb one of these. I have also never been above 5600m. But with enough time to acclimatize, you can go climb these. Trust me. Just trust me. Actually, please don’t trust me- do lots of your own research if you actually want to try.

After a trek near Everest in Nepal, I am feeling jealous of mountain climbers. I wish I could also scamper across impossible terrain above the rest of the Earthbound fools, getting all the good views and the glory. Of course, many gnarly mountains are possible to just hike up, and I would never sniff at something like peakbagging 14ers in Colorado. But what about the seriously high mountains, above 6,000 meters/20,000 feet?

You might think that those will probably never happen for me. Climbing big glaciated peaks requires time, plus either expertise and money or just lots and lots of money. Let’s take Everest as the most extreme example. Summiting costs at least $50,000, takes two months, and requires some previous experience at altitude. Who has that kind of time and money? To me, the options seem to be (1) be independently wealthy, or (2) have a very well-paying job and use every vacation for years to climb mountains until you save enough cash and gain enough mountain experience for an Everest push. On smaller and cheaper mountains like Denali, we can throw in option (3), which is dirtbagging for years off odd jobs, building real expertise, guiding some peaks and saving cash for others. While I respect this third option, I expect most of us aren’t ready to throw it all away for mountaineering just yet.

But there are exceptions: huge mountains that require little money or expertise. You still need solid acclimatization time, hiking enthusiasm, and enough cash for a flight to South Asia or South America unless you’re there already. That’s it. No crampons or ice axes, no wildly expensive peak fees, no requirement to hire a guide.

How can such mountains exist? You need a specific set of conditions. First, you need mountains above 6000m, which are only in the Andes and Himalayas. The one outside those ranges is Denali, but we’re not climbing that anytime soon. Second, you need extremely dry areas. Mountains this high are usually covered by snow and glaciers, which we don’t know how to climb and can’t afford the gear for. In arid desert environments, though, the lack of moisture can leave high mountains glacier-free. Finally, you need the mountain to be relatively unknown. If the mountain is famous, the government will slap lots of expensive red tape on it, and suddenly we can’t afford it. In summary, the sweet spot is an obscure desert with high mountains.

Where are these magical mountain sweet spots? I believe there are two: Ladakh in India, and the Altiplano/Atacama Desert region in Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. The Andes in Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia are too wet, so they are out. Tibet and Nepal’s Dolpo region require expensive permits and guided trips, so they are out. Kilimanjaro almost makes the list, but since it is slightly below 6000m and has more fees and red tape than others on the list, it is out. There might be something high and dry enough in Pakistan or Central Asia, but I can’t find it. Let me know in the comments if I’m missing something.  

What are the main challenges to successfully summiting? In short, altitude and water. To acclimatize, you should first hang out for a few days around 3500m making day hikes, which should be easy since major towns in these places reach that altitude. Then you need to spend several nights above 4000m, ideally moving up gradually each night, before making a summit push. Sourcing wtaer for so many nights is tough in these remote, dry lands. With sufficient time, the best way could be to start with a logistically easier mountain closer to water or town, then go for a tougher one once better acclimated.

I’ve combed through Ladakh and the Altiplano to find the best peaks for a potential dirtbag peakbagging trip. Let’s jump into it.

Zone 1: Ladakh, India

A Buddhist kingdom in the Himalayan rain shadow, Ladakh has outstanding natural beauty and fascinating culture. It is the only slice of the Tibetan plateau that you can visit without expensive guided tours.  It also has very few regulations on trekking, making it one of the world’s best regions for independent trekking at high altitude. The regional capital is Leh, from which you can access all the peaks on this list.

Some considerations: You can only hike up these peaks in late summer (July-September), as they become technical climbs in winter. Inner line permits are required for regions near the borders with China and Pakistan, but you can get them easily from any travel agent in Leh for about $10. Water sources are scarce in some areas, but most routes would pass water at least once a day. Mountains here tend to have long, gradual ridgelines of decent rock which are the best way to the top.

1. Chamser Kangri (6,622m/21,725ft)

Possibly the highest non-technical mountain in Ladakh, and a good candidate for the cheapest peak in the world of its size. In fact, this would be about the seventh highest mountain in the Andes! You can get very close to it by public bus, and you don’t really need a permit. Dirtbag peakbagging at its finest.

• Access: Not bad. The mountain is right next to the lake Tso Moriri, which has a village called Karzok with food and accommodation. There are three monthly buses to Karzok and back to Leh. You can also get there by hiking in from Rumtse or Meroo on the Leh-Manali highway, which has a bus every day in the summer.
• Red tape: Climbing permits are technically required but there is no one to check them. You do need an Inner Line Permit, which police may check on the road between Leh and Karzok.
• Other considerations: There is a nearby summit called Lungser Kangri that may be a little higher, but it apparently gets technical. The region around Korzok is full of ridges at or approaching 6000m that you could climb first for acclimatization.
• Further reading: Micah Images, an incredible site for Ladakh independent trekking info, has the best page.

2. Spangnak Ri (6,395m/20,505ft)

A good example of Ladakh’s unparalleled freedom. This is a beast of a mountain with no major obstacles on the way to the summit, but very few ever think to climb it. There are not even any free-use photos of it online.

• Access: Near the hiking route from Rumtse (on the Leh-Manali highway) to Tso Moriri lake. This route is difficult: not much of a formal trail, no possible accommodation, few water sources, 5000m passes. On the other hand, route finding is easy and there are many ridges approaching 6000m in the area where you could acclimatize.
• Red tape: Climbing permits are technically required but there is no one to check them. Inner Line Permits are also necessary, but they would only be checked if you continue to Tso Moriri/Karzok after the climb.
• Other considerations: The lack of online info means that a quality trekking book would be a good investment for this climb.
• Further reading: Not much info online. A random blog has some good photos that show the hike. The great Micah Images site has a report of the trek from Rumtse to Tso Moriri.

3. Stok Kangri (6,153m/20,187ft)

Part of the original inspiration for this list, this might be the most accessible peak of this height in the world. Unfortunately its accessibility has not always been a positive. The mountain rapidly commercialized in the 2010’s when it became the best-known high trekking peak near Leh. Ecological damage followed. Local authorities closed the peak in 2019 to all climbing and said they would review it in late 2021. Keep an eye on the news, but it may be good to go for the 2022 summer season, which will hopefully be COVID-free as well.

Stok Kangri is the only 6000m peak I’ve tried (in 2017), and I totally failed due to altitude issues. Looking back, I think I had a two-day plan: travel from Leh to Base Camp near 5000m, sleep there, then summit early morning and come back to Leh. This is reasonable, but only for the well-acclimatized. I had not even slept a single night above 4200m, and had most recently been in 3500m Leh, and by the time I got to 5000m it was all I could do to crouch in my tent like a goblin eating raisins until dawn. A cautionary tale.

• Access: Easiest on this list. There is a good trail to the summit from Stok village. Stok is just across the Indus River from Leh and is easily reached by taxi or shared transport via Choglamsar.
• Red tape: As of 2017, there was a $60 peak fee but no other requirements. This may change after the mountain reopens in 2022 or later.
• Other considerations: There is some exposure near the summit. If nervous about routefinding or challenges on the summit day, you can follow a group as there will be guided groups going up on most good weather days in season.
• Further reading: Probably the most-climbed mountain on this list, with lots of online info. Micah Images has a trip report. This highly detailed blog has lots of photos of the route.

4. Kang Yatze Peak 2 (6,250m/21,510ft)

A well-known trekking peak for guided trips, this is the secondary summit of the technical 6,496m Kang Yatze peak. There are many positives: it is on a popular trekking route that can be done in lodges rather than camping, lodges at 4800 in Nimaling allow for comfortable acclimatization, and the number of people nearby make it safer than other Ladakh peaks. Still, it must not be quite as satisfying as reaching the true top of the mountain.

• Access: Right off the main Markha Valley trek, several day’s hike from Leh.
• Red tape: Unclear. Tackling the main Kang Yatze summit would require a real mountaineering permit, but the lower summit probably has a different scheme. People certainly do this independently.
• Other considerations: You can consider the nearby ridge above Nimaling, which hits about 6000m itself, for acclimatization. In general, this seems the best peak near Leh for acclimatization setup, so you could do this first if trying to bag multiple Ladakh peaks on one trip.
• Further reading: The Summitpost page is OK. A report on the nearby Nimaling Ridge by Micah Images.

Zone 2: The Altiplano/Atacama Desert, in Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile

A sparsely populated region with one of the most intense climates in the world, this high desert is not for the faint of heart. It is however littered with impressive, prominent volcanoes that anyone can climb with minimal red tape or climbing skills. If you can get there. Public transport is hard to rely on. Many travelers rent 4×4 cars with drivers to take them into the area, but hitching seems to have a high success rate and is much cheaper than a car rental. Water is a main issue, and it is vital to understand and plan for conditions.

Some considerations: The volcanoes here tend to have lots of scree, which can make progress slow. Summer (December-March) is the best season because it is warmer. No one speaks English, so bring along that phrasebook or fluent friend.

1. Ojos del Salado (6,893m/22,615ft), Argentina/Chile

The biggest of the bunch, and the original inspiration for this list. It is the world’s highest volcano, and the second highest mountain in South America. Due to its position flanking the world’s driest desert, it is just sitting there, unglaciated, waiting for you to walk up it. The summit lies right on the Argentina/Chile border. You can climb it from either side: the Argentina side is free and has no red tape, but the Chilean side has far easier access. Be ready for more serious cold and wind here than on other mountains on the list.

• Access: Brutally difficult from Agentina, requiring a multiday backpack across land with very little water. A true adventure that some have tried and succeeded. Intriguingly, there is a legendary local fixer named Johnson Reynoso living in nearby Fiambala town who can help with logistics. From Chile, a rough 4×4 road goes all the way to 5,800m although it may be impassable beyond about 5,000m due to weather. The vast majority of summiteers come from the Chilean side.
• Red tape: None from the Argentinian side. From the Chilean side, there is a permit fee of about $160 and a mostly friendly police checkpoint where they can give you advice on conditions but may shut down climbing for a day or two in bad weather.
• Other considerations: Altitude sickness is more of a risk than others on the list. Climbing another 6000m peak first is essential. The last few hundred feet to the summit is a rock scramble, with some fixed ropes of questionable age. Some people say it’s hard, some say it’s easy, but this is a meaningful obstacle at 22,000 feet.
• Further reading: The Summitpost page is excellent and gives all the details. This Thorntree forum thread gives a feel of how people try to tackle the logistics from the Chilean side. A great blog from The Cloud Ocean about an attempt from the Argentine side.

2/3. Callejon Canapa (5,882m/ and Cerro Tomasamil (5,890m/19,320ft), Bolivia

Cheating a bit, as these both fall below the mythical 6000m line. They make the list because they are maybe Bolivia’s highest hikable peaks, set in a deliciously remote, tough corner of Bolivia where not many go. Chasing the Real World would deeply approve of any trip to this area.

• Access: Not easy, but doable. The two volcanoes are on opposite sides of Carretera 701, which is an unpaved international highway connecting with Chile. There is some form of public transport to Vila Alota, a 500-person town about 20-30 miles from the mountains on the same road. You could probably get to Vila Alota, then find transport heading towards the border and jump off when you hit the mountains. You would still have a longer walk than ideal, since old mining roads go some of the way up both peaks. If you can spring for a 4×4 rental, it will make the climbs much easier.
• Red tape: None, as far as I can tell. No one has thought to regulate this remote area of the Altiplano.
• Other considerations: The lack of water makes slow acclimatization climbs difficult. Therefore, you should first try to acclimatize on some nearby 5000m peak (such as the one visible on google maps 10km north of Vila Alota).
• Further reading: This trip report on Summitpost is excellent. Here is a short piece on the 701 road.

4. Cerro Aucanquilcha, Chile (6,176m/20,262ft)

There is an astounding density of 6000m+ volcanoes in the Chilean Altiplano just over the border from Bolivia. Other peaks include Palpana, San Pedro, and San Pablo. Aucanquilcha is special because it is the highest, and has an old mining road all the way to a 5800m ridge close to the summit. In fact, four miners lived above 5,900m/19,400ft in the 1980’s, making them the highest permanent residents of all time. While the road is not passable by car beyond 5,000m, it certainly promises a doable hike up the mountain.

• Access: The mountain is near Ollague village, which has accommodation, on the main (but unpaved) road to the border. It is probably possible to get public transport to Ollague on this main road or at least hitch. The mining road up towards the peak leads right off from town. With no car, the hike from Ollague to the peak would be long and dry but probably possible.
• Red tape: The official rules are not evident, but police in Ollague apparently would refuse permission to climb the mountain, in order to reduce risk. Best to just keep plans to yourself and go climb.
• Other considerations: Some guide services run this as a trip from San Pedro de Atacama. If you are already in Chile, you can probably get good information on route and transport in San Pedro town.
• Further reading: The Summitpost page has some information and useful diagrams, but not much detail. Wikipedia has lots of detail on the history.

5. Volcan Copiapo, Chile (6,052m/19,856ft)

Dried-up, ancient volcanoes abound in the hinterlands near Ojos Del Salado. Copiapo is one that nudges past 6000m. Hikers sometimes use it as an acclimatization peak for Ojos, but it is an ultra-prominent peak in itself. It makes this list in part because of the fascinating detail that the summit has an Incan religious platform. By reaching the summit, you can join in the genuinely ancient tradition of hiking to 6000m with no technical climbing gear!

• Access: Close enough to a road, Ruta C-347, but even the main roads in this area lack public transport and get almost no traffic. The strategy would be to start in Copiapo town, far away in the lowlands, and make a plan from there by asking about current hitching possibilities with groups going to Ojos.
• Red tape: There may not be any. Climbers using Copiapo to summit Ojos do not seem to get separate permits for Copiapo.
• Other considerations: Copiapo is steeper than most mountains on this list, and apparently involves hours of frustrating walking up scree slopes. One step forward, two steps back.
• Further reading: This blog is the best I could find. The Wiki page has decent background.